Review #02: Kumo Izakaya — Grandiose Japanese-Fusion Grub in Brunswick?
After dining here on several occasions, I’ve made up my mind: most of Kumo Izakaya’s dishes simply have something about them that fall flat.
As I strolled down Lygon Street for the first time after moving to the neighbourhood, Kumo Izakaya instantly caught my eye. Housed in a former ANZ bank, the restaurant’s exterior boasts a feature wall adorned with multicoloured stonework, contrasted by a flat larger-than-life roof of modern grey tiles.
Allured by the sheer magnificence of its architecture, I’ve dined at Kumo Izakaya on multiple occasions. After doing so, I’ve made up my mind: most of their dishes simply have something about them that fall flat. That said, what Kumo Izakaya lacks in sustenance, they make up for in ambience.
This review comprises reflections from all three of my visits to this suave contemporary Japanese restaurant.
This review comprises reflections from all three of my visits to this suave contemporary Japanese restaurant.
To start, the Bang Bang Chicken ($20) impressed with its flavourful, succulent meat and generous portion size — perfect for protein-hungry individuals.
However, the accompanying slaw was disappointing; it was overly watery, with liquid seeping beneath the chicken, compromising both the dish’s texture and flavour.
Meanwhile, the Grilled Beef Rib ($32) initially appealed to me as an avid chimichurri consumer. The ribs were phenomenally tender, packed with immense flavour, and luxurious. But, yet another Kumo dish afflicted by its accompaniments, its smashed potatoes were barely salted, tasted almost stale, and somehow… wet?
To add, the chimichurri was underwhelming, and seemed to lack the mischievous kick you’d expect in a chimichurri — apart from the basic parsley and olive oil. In particular, this was disappointing as it didn’t add much flavour value to the dish, when it easily could have, with a touch of bird’s eye chilli.
On a separate occasion, I was enticed by the Ramen Gnocchi ($26), a dish that was both indulgent and intriguing. While the chives added some freshness, the spicy cream sauce felt overly thick, making the already dense dish even heavier.
The crispy grana padano topping was a standout feature of this dish, inspiring me to create my own version — crispy parmigiano reggiano — which I still use to elevate my pasta dishes to this day.
On my most recent visit, I enjoyed the Mentai Udon ($28), which was creamy and decadent, with the slightest touch of spice. Unfortunately, the experience was marred by a surprising scarcity of prawns; I had six bites — one piece of prawn per spoonful of noodles — before realising there was none left!
Among all the dishes at Kumo Izakaya, the French Fries with nori salt ($14) continues to be my favourite by miles. In terms of texture, it’s crispy through and through. Meanwhile, the nori salt adds an understated but noticeable umami factor, making it irresistible and highly addictive — even my seafood-opposed partner was inhaling fries by the second!
Although, on my last visit, I found the dish inadequately seasoned, and the addictive factor never kicked in. To add, about halfway through the bowl of fries, the nori salt was nowhere to be seen or tasted.
As for my biggest gripe with Kumo Izakaya, they seem to have begun deceiving customers into paying for their water.
You’ll be asked if you’d like still or sparkling (without the option of tap), and all of a sudden, a bottle of water lands on your table that will now make its way to your bill.
To be fair, when we probed the wait staff about this, they readily exchanged it and removed our still water from the bill. Nevertheless, I never enjoy bothering wait staff more than I need to, so it certainly put a dampener on this raccoon’s dining experience.
On the plus side, they have an impressive range of alcoholic drinks, from cocktails to sake, and the like. Every time I’ve ordered a drink, I’ve been pleased with it.
Additionally, the indoor area features high ceilings, spaciousness, and a pleasant amount of air conditioning. The outdoor area is even better during good weather, with less noise pollution and a quaint view of Lygon Street.
All this to say, I wouldn’t call it the top choice for a casual weekend when you’re looking to treat yourself to an exceptional feed. However, it’s a fantastic pick for special occasions with large groups where the focus shifts from the food to excellent cocktails and a relaxed celebratory atmosphere.
Review Summary
Pros of Kumo Izakaya
Unique, interesting dishes and cocktails
Magnificent interiors with double-height ceilings that contribute to the grand atmosphere, perfect for medium- to large-sized gatherings
Extremely pleasant al fresco dining area, with a quaint view of Lygon Street
Cons of Kumo Izakaya
Most dishes have something about them that fall flat
Default paid sparkling water; you’ll have to specifically request for free tap water
Review Information
Visited: Thursday, 8:30pm; Friday, 9pm; Saturday, 8pm
Food Ordered: Bang Bang Chicken with lemongrass and teriyaki ($20), Grilled Wagyu Beef Rib with smashed potato and chimichurri sauce ($32), Ramen Gnocchi with crispy grana padano, chives, and spicy cream sauce ($26), Mentai Udon with Skull Island prawns ($24), French Fries with nori salt and wasabi mayo ($14)
What We’d Recommend From These Visits: French Fries with nori salt and wasabi mayo ($14)
Note: The restaurant’s menu changes frequently and some items may have been altered or discontinued since our last visit.
Visit Kumo Izakaya
Address: 152 Lygon St, Brunswick East VIC 3057
Opening Hours: Tuesday—Saturday, 5:30pm—11pm; Sunday, 5—11pm